Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its essence: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these narratives and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
